Enclosures should contain equal areas of land and water. The water should be shallow, as Bombinas are not especially good swimmers. (It should be less than 5 cm deep for the smaller species, and 10 cm deep for the giant Asian species.) Real or artificial plants should be placed in the water to break the surface, so the frogs are able to easily exit their pond. Water should be changed frequently, even if a filtration system is used, and should be both chlorine and chloramine free. Bottled spring water is usually a good choice. Land areas should include hiding sites, and can be made up of equal parts of gravel, peat moss, and sphagnum moss. The overall design of the enclosure should accommodate easy cleaning and water changes.

Diet

In captivity, Bombinas should be fed a variety of invertebrates and occasional feeder fish, such as guppies. The frogs feed both on land and in water. Crickets, waxworms, mealworms, silkworms, fruit flies, and earthworms are all suitable food items. To ensure proper nutrition, these food items should be dusted with a vitamin-mineral supplement prior to being placed in the enclosure. Also prior to being placed in the Bombina enclosure, the insects should be gut-loaded with vegetables high in beta-carotene; failure to do so will result in the gradual fading of their vivid ventral coloration.

Hypocalcemia can occur if food items are not properly fortified with vitamin-mineral supplements. This condition is especially evident when metamorphosis occurs, as the need for adequate calcium is imperative to achieve proper bone formation.

Reproduction

Breeding Bombinas is possible in captivity. A cooling period of 6-8 weeks, followed by a gradual warming, will usually induce the frogs to breed. Eggs are attached, in small groups, to water plants, and number fewer than 100 per spawn in all species. Eggs hatch in 5-7 days and metamorphose in 5-6 months. The tadpoles are cannibalistic, and therefore should be housed in small numbers in ponds with enough plants to provide food and shelter. Feeding tadpoles color-enhancing tropical fish foods will ensure natural ventral color development, as will vegetables high in beta-carotene. Post-metamorphosis, adult size is reached in 18-24 months.

Artificial stimulation of breeding is possible with the use of human chorionic gonadotropin (HCG), although natural breeding is usually much more successful in producing healthy offspring in greater numbers. Injection of 100 to 300 IU of the HCG into the dorsal lymph sac of each sex will usually stimulate amplexus (mating) and egg production within 10-12 hours.

Conclusion

Bombinas are generally very healthy and demonstrate few medical problems. Wild-caught individuals usually arrive in amazingly good condition. If fecal flotations show internal parasites, deworming with appropriate anthelmintics is usually adequate. Rostral abrasions are easily treated with systemic antibiotics and the application of topical antibiotic ointments (ophthalmic ointments have worked well in the author's experience). Affected individuals should be segregated from others until health problems are resolved.

Bombina frogs make excellent amphibian pets. They are attractive amphibians that are active, hearty and diurnal, and require little specialized care or equipment to maintain in captivity.