Introducing Two Cats
Some cats will be completely nonplussed by a new arrival. Others will consider the turn of events as nothing less than an encroachment on their space and an affront to their status. When another cat enters the scene, your first cat loses his territorial monopoly. A hierarchy will need to be established: Being first into the home doesn't automatically earn a feline the status of "top" cat. You can expect some conflict as both cats adjust to the new circumstances, even if initial introduction goes well. In time, however, most cats will come to a mutually acceptable arrangement. Be prepared to make allowances for both cats through the adjustment period, which can last for a week or two to many months.
Plopping down a new cat in front of your resident feline rarely makes for a smooth introduction. A better approach is to keep the cats apart at first and let both acclimatize gradually, which will take some patience on your part.
- Set up a separate room for the new cat, with food and water bowls, a litter box, toys, a bed and places to hide. Make sure the food and water bowls are set away from the litter box.
- Take the new arrival straight to this room, and for the first day only go in to check on his food and litter box.
- Let your resident cat smell the carrier you used to transport the new arrival so that he gets used to the stranger's odor.
- Keep the newcomer isolated long enough for him to adjust to the new situation without the additional stress of meeting another cat. This may take as little as a day, but sometimes more than a week; you'll know he is ready when he comes out of hiding and shows an interest in exploring what's on the other side of the door.
The next step is to shut your resident cat in another room and let the new cat out to explore the house for a short period of time. If he simply runs back into his safe room, try again later. Once he's comfortable with the rest of the house, it's time for the cats to meet. Experts usually recommend waiting until there has been no hissing or growling from either side of the door for a day or two. Clip the claws of both cats and allow the new cat to come out of his room. Try not to greet his presence with any fanfare. Allow the two cats to interact. An arched back and puffed-up tail, hissing and snarling from one or both cats on these first face-to-face meetings are normal reactions. But be prepared to separate them should a serious battle break out. Try distracting them with a loud noise, spraying them with cold water, or dropping a box or laundry basket over the aggressor and placing the other cat in a closed room. Never reach into the melee to pull fighting cats apart; you'll be clawed or bitten for your trouble.
Even if things seem to be going smoothly, play the psychologist. Fuss over your resident cat, but don't pay a lot attention to the new cat in front of him. Put the new cat back in his isolation room after a short session. Continue this routine until the cats appear to be more comfortable with each other, letting the new cat stay out for longer periods of time, but only when someone is around to supervise. Cats usually work things out by themselves, although it can take from a few days to several months. Usually the existing cat is the one that takes longer to accept the presence of the other cat. The best thing you can do is to leave them to it; as they grow to accept each other, you'll need to separate them less and less often.
The final step is to start gradually moving the new cat's litter box and food bowls closer to those of the other cat. They will probably end up sharing litter boxes, but keep the food well separated. Cats can become anxious when they eat too close to each other.
