Woke up in our funny Klemtu log cabin in a shared room with beds smaller than a twin, but I slept hard with strange bear dreams. The salmon are going crazy under the dock, flopping and thrashing about, and it seems like the whole population of Klemtu is out fishing.

Then, we're off in search of the great white Ursus americanus kermodei armed with red pepper bear spray and our watchdog, Lucy. It's foggy and looks like rain. How shocking...  Looks like we've got a two-hour boat ride to Gimble Island after an evening in our floating barn, eating our salmon dinner caught off the dock and drinking boxed wine. We’re with the new production crew; the bear guy, Wayne; and our young First Nations guide, Doug. We went on a jaunt around Klemtu Village to the local grocery store, where hardcore girl rap was blasting from MTV and little XaiXai girls screamed over the arrival of a new video. The world is getting smaller and smaller.

There are two types of First Nations People:

· XaiXai (say "X" like "H")

· Kitasoo

There is a unity totem pole in the center of town; an eagle, raven, wolf and orca (locally called "blackfish") represent all the clans.

Thought of the moment:

I took my first floatplane from Bella Bella to Klemtu (love those soft-sounding names) and had the softest landing of my life. Floatplanes are dreamy.

On Wayne’s boat en route to the island, it was rainy and cold, but really beautiful mountains covered in dense forests surrounded us. The water is getting a bit rough, and my hands are freezing. I wonder if we will see ANY bears today?

Though frozen, my fingers are crossed.