Fleas

Horrible creatures that they are, fleas are nothing if not survivors. They've been around for at least a hundred million years, plaguing cats for much of that time. Use any opportunity — grooming, petting, playing — to check your cat for signs of infestation: the fleas themselves or flea "dirt" (tiny black specks that turn red when wet). Fleas tend to gather where your cat can't groom effectively: on his neck and around his ears, near the tail, and in folds where fur is thickest. And for every adult flea you can see, you may be dealing with hundreds of eggs. Eggs fall off your cat and, safely ensconced in your carpet or the cat's bed, develop into larvae, then pupae before emerging as adult fleas. The cycle typically takes three weeks to a month, but can last as long as several months. The key to shutting down the flea circus in your home is to treat both your cat and the environment, including any other pets, for as long as it takes to eradicate all fleas at all life stages. The moment you spot evidence of fleas on your cat, isolate him in an uncarpeted area (such as the bathroom) with all his essentials until you can treat him. This way, if any eggs fall off your cat, they'll be in a room that's easy to clean. Next, tackle the rest of your home, and plan to repeat this housecleaning weekly until all the varmints are eradicated.

Getting Rid of Fleas on Your Cat
Unless you decide to take the low-tech route of the flea comb in your war against fleas, your best ally is your vet. A vet can recommend (and usually supply) the best product for your cat, probably one of the new topical or systemic treatments. The arrival of these flea fighters, only available through vets, was a boon for pet owners. Depending on the type, the treatment is either applied to the cat's back, added to food or injected by the vet. Several of these products kill live fleas immediately and continue to dispatch new fleas for several weeks. Others cause the fleas to lay defective eggs.

The other weapons in the war on fleas are sprays, mousses, dips, shampoos and powders. All of these kill fleas on contact, but most do not prevent re-infestation. Also, many cats hate being sprayed or bathed, making it difficult to treat them thoroughly. Powders can also be drying to skin and irritating to the respiratory system. Flea collars are usually ineffective and some may cause dermatitis. Make sure any product you use is specifically for cats (not dogs or the environment) and follow the instructions carefully. Never mix products; even safe ingredients can become hazardous when combined. For a few hours after treatment, watch your cat for reactions. At the first sign of anything unusual, such as a rash, shaking, vomiting, lethargy, diarrhea or drooling, rush your cat (and the product) to the vet.

Getting Rid of Fleas in the House
You'll have to go on a cleaning rampage. Before starting, cut up a flea collar and put the pieces inside your vacuum cleaner. Vacuum thoroughly, including spaces between and under couch cushions, under furniture, and in closets. Seal the vacuum bag in a plastic bag and get rid of it promptly. To deal the deathblow to larvae in carpets, use a special flea powder or sprinkle on table salt or borax. Keep your cat out of the room and vacuum the carpet the next day. Throw bedding, seat covers and any other washables your pet touches into the washer at least once a week. Wash with the hottest water possible and some flea shampoo that works against both adult fleas and eggs. The shampoo can also be used to wash floors. Buy sprays to treat crevices.

If necessary, call in the flea bombs or foggers, which are effective for three to six months. Your family and all pets must evacuate while the chemicals are being released into the air. Residue has to be cleaned meticulously.